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Who invented the sandwich?

Nobody invented meat in bread, people ate it long before it had a name. The name comes from John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, and it shows up in London in the early 1760s.

Ham and cheese sandwichOne sandwich, two slices of bread350kcal
A ham and cheese sandwich on two slices of bread on a white plate

Bread and meat, long before the name

Putting meat between bread is about as old as bread and meat. Britannica says this way of eating must be that old, and the word came much later. Larousse Gastronomique notes that French farm workers ate meat between slices of bread before London gave it a name. Jewish tradition goes further back and credits Hillel the Elder, in Jerusalem in the time of King Herod, with wrapping lamb and bitter herbs in unleavened bread at Passover. So the idea was never new. What was new in 18th century England was the word.

The Earl and his name

John Montagu lived from 1718 to 1792 and was the 4th Earl of Sandwich, a powerful politician who served as First Lord of the Admiralty. The first time the word appears as food is in the journal of the historian Edward Gibbon. On 14 November 1762 he wrote about men at the Cocoa Tree club in London, supping at little tables on a bit of cold meat, or a Sandwich, with a glass of punch. By then the Earl's name was already stuck to the snack.

The gambling story

The famous version comes from a French writer, Pierre-Jean Grosley, who stayed in London in 1765 and published his book Londres in 1770. He tells of a minister who spent 24 hours at a gaming table, living on a piece of beef between two slices of toasted bread. Grosley says the dish became the fashion and took the minister's name. He never names him, but the minister was taken to be Lord Sandwich. Nothing else backs the story up.

What probably happened

Britannica thinks it more likely that the Earl ate these snacks while working at his desk, or that London society simply heard about them when he asked for them. That fits a man who was a busy minister in the 1760s, with more papers to read than cards to play. Either way, the details of the gaming table are a good tale and not much more. What is solid is the date: by the early 1760s the name Sandwich meant meat in bread.

How it spread

A lord's title gave a plain snack some style, and that helped. Britannica says the sandwich quickly became fashionable, the word was taken into French, and the habit spread across Europe. Today the word covers almost anything held between bread, from a ham and cheese on white to a toasted club stacked three layers high. A typical sandwich is two slices of bread and a filling, and people still eat it the way the Earl may have, without looking up from what they are doing.

Sources

Encyclopaedia Britannica, SandwichGrammarphobia, The earl of sandwich

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